Beijing – the Smog Capital

A typical day in Beijing
There is no reason why Beijing is not on the shortlist of the world’s most beloved destinations, yet the singular thing everyone focuses on when the plane lands is the city’s omnipresent, impenetrable smog.

The smog was thick as always during my few days in town. Conversations over drinks with expats, after touching on work and the Communist Party and other random topics, would always go back to the most basic of human needs, namely air and water. The tone was a collective sigh of exasperation – a desire to get away from a place where wearing pollution masks was a necessity.

Which is a shame, since Beijing, with a history that traces back to the Peking Man 230,000 years ago, one-of-a-kind wonders like the Great Wall and Forbidden Palace, a whopping seven World Heritage Sites in its city proper, has some of the greatest collections of human cultural achievement anywhere on Earth.

All this millennia-worth of history, amazingly, is viewed as a mere sideshow in contemporary Beijing, as the city’s importance lays upon its status as the capital of the world’s second largest economy. With a population of more than 20 millions and a rapidly emerging middle class, engineering masterpieces like the Bird’s Nest Stadium and National Grand Theater are symbols of the city’s ambitious drive towards prosperity and modernization.

This resolute path to development driven by investment has a tremendously negative impact on the environment, which Beijing’s notorious smog serves as a daily reminder. Just how perilous is the city’s air? Of the 2,028 days between April 2008 and March 2014, 80% recorded an above-100 rating on the daily air-quality index, which deems the air to be unhealthy for sensitive groups by U.S. standards. Often the pollution reaches hazardous level and dominates international headlines.

Why is the air so deadly? 

Source: Economist
Source: Economist
Beijing’s air is filled with tiny particulate matter known as PM 2.5, particles measuring less than 2.5 microns in length that can greatly increase the risks of cardiovascular and respiratory diseases. According to the World Health Organization air pollution even has a direct causation to cancer.

These are not just hypotheses – life expectancy of Beijing’s citizens are 5.5 years lower due to an increased incidence of cardiorespiratory mortality. Breathing Beijing’s air has the same effect as smoking 40 cigarettes a day (which might be an exaggeration), and an estimate of 4,000 people die per day across China because of air pollution.

Three main factors contribute to the pollution: power generation, heavy industry and cars. China burned around 4,250 million tons of coal in 2014, which amounted to almost 50% of the entire planet’s consumption. Worse yet much of this coal was of the highly polluting variety, with a high content of ash and sulphur. The government has tried to curb the use of low-grade coal but the biggest user of coal, power generation, is exempted. Since most of China’s coal production is concentrated in the provinces next to Beijing, the capital’s air inevitably suffers. Add to the toxic mix more than two million automobiles on the road it becomes apparent why Beijing has some of the world’s worst air (and traffic jams).

“When can I go outside?”

One of the most depressing thoughts in life has to be the realization that every breath you take increases you odds of developing life-threatening diseases. This has prompted the Chinese journalist Chai Jing to produce an online video called Under the Dome (video with subtitles). When her daughter was born, she was diagnosed with a tumour, which Chai believed was caused by her own constant exposure to Beijing’s air.

When the infant was discharged from the hospital, Chai covered all the gaps between windows and frames in her home with duck tape. Her infant never stepped out of the apartment except for immunization. Chai felt helpless to the question she knew would come eventually, “Mom, why do you trap me indoor all the time? Why can’t I go outside?”

Compares to what Beijing’s inhabitants submit to everyday, short-term exposure to the city’s air pollution is probably inconsequential to a visitor’s health. But until air pollution ceases to weigh on everyone’s mind, Beijing will always punch below its weight as a tourist destination.

Dive Report: East Bali

September 12, 2015
Photo set on Flickr

Manta Point, Nusa Penida

For my first trip to Bali, I spurned the ever-popular Ubud and South Bali for the relatively seclusive east coast. I only wanted to accomplish two things on this trip – to relax for a few days with my wife and take in several dives. The area around Padang Bai seemed the most convenient for both, and after some searches on I contacted Geko Dive, which offered me a 3-day package with a private dive master named Kanox. He was in his early 30s and was born and bred in Padang Bai.

After a layoff of almost a year, my first dip back into the ocean was at the rather challenging Manta Point off the south coast of Nusa Penida, a stomach-turning one-hour ride on fast boat from Padang Bai. Since Geko only had Nusa Penida scheduled for this day during my stay in Bali, I had no choice but to go along and wish for the best.

Already famous for its strong current, the condition was particularly strenuous on this day, and I responded by puking uncontrollably soon after I descended to 20 ft. What remained of my diminished cognitive power I channeled all of it on focusing on Kanox’s pink fins because my life literally depended on it. As the spot of pink gradually submerged by the encompassing turquoise, all I could hear was the incessant huffing sound of my own breathing. Even pushing as hard as I could I hardly made any advance against the cold current.

That’s where professional help stepped in – Kanox saw I was lagging behind, turned back and dragged me forward like a bag of grocery. For the rest of the dive I clung to him like a koala to an eucalyptus. We saw a few mantas at a cleaning station from afar and nothing else notable.

Dive time: 33 min
Max depth: 23 m
Water temp: 22°C
Visibility: 15 m
Seen: Manta

Buyuk, Nusa Penida

Arguably Nusa Penida’s most famous dive spot and a prime location for mola-mola sighting, Crystal Point is no joke – witness the several high profile accidents over the past few years. Facing today’s unforgiving current, we bailed out to the calmer Buyuk on the island’s northeast coast.

Kanox glued to me, the disoriented laggard, from the start this time. The condition was again quite challenging. Sadly there wasn’t much marine life to divert my attention from the cold – over the duration of the half-hour dive I kept an eye out for mola-mola but we once again came up empty.

Dive time: 34 min
Max depth: 27 m
Water temp: 20°C
Visibility: 15 m
Seen: Hard and soft coral, Razorfish, Pennant coralfish

September 13

Gili Tepekong

Our quest for mola-mola continued amid another day of uncompromising condition at Gili Tepekong, a 15-minute boat ride from Padang Bai. Several divers reported mola sighting the past few days near a cave close to the island’s northwest coast, but the current was too strong today. After drifting on our boat for almost an hour close to the shore, we cut bait and sailed to the 30 m wall to the north where the condition was more favorable.

We sank to 32 m and immediately was attracted by a large pink hard coral. As I tried to swim closer for a macro shot, Kanox frenetically knocked on his gas tank and waved ahead to catch my attention. I looked up toward where he was pointing, and after squinting my eyes hard enough I could see a dark object approaching. Could it be mola-mola?

Swimming forward as fast as I could, the dark object became increasingly discernible; round, almost bullet-like in shape with fins stretched out vertically like the wings of a jumbo jet, I knew we had hit the jackpot. Ten seconds of unadulterated joy later, the mid-sized sunfish turned around and swam off, leaving the few snapshots on my memory card the only proof of our fleeting encounter.

Lady Luck only smiled upon us that one time – we didn’t bump into another mola the rest of this dive or the next. A few patches of coral and a reef shark aside, Buyuk was not teeming with marine life, but with the trophy that’s the photos of mola in my pocket I would call this one of the more satisfying dives on my logbook.

Dive time: 25 min
Max depth: 32 m
Water temp: 20°C
Visibility: 20 m
Seen: Mola-mola, Reef shark, Hard and soft coral

September 15

USAT Liberty, Tulamben

“Everyone comes to Bali for mola-mola, but Tulamben is what people always remember back home.”

Kanox dispersed this nugget of wisdom on our way to Tulamben. With so many diving options near Padang Bai, why should anyone take the 90 min drive north to this tiny fishing village? It all traces back to the year 1942 during World War II, when the U.S. Navy cargo ship USAT Liberty was torpedoed by a Japanese submarine near the Lombok Strait. The damaged ship was then towed to the beach of Tulamben, and 21 years later it slipped to a sand slope from the shore when Mount Agung erupted. Soft coral soon covered the wreck, and now this almost century-old relic has evolved into a unique micro ecosystem bursting with marine life.

Being Bali’s most popular dive spot, Tulamben attracts up to 300 divers during the high season. On this supposedly quiet day there were still a few dozen divers in the water at all times. It is easy to understand Tulamben’s popularity; compares to Nusa Penida the shore dive here is easy, warm and full of various species of fish and soft coral. Almost every inch of the wreck was covered by coral, and some part of the ship like the wheel and a gun were still recognizable. I saw more fish here than all of my previous dives at Nusa Penida and Tepekong combined. And it was not only fish – I also saw a turtle, a colony of Spotted garden eel, a red sea slug called Spanish dancer and a sea fan.

After two dives at Tulamben, I have to agree with Kanox. Mola-mola is the elusive memento for boasting back home. As for Tulamben, that’s the fun and easy dive tailor-made for novice like myself.

Here is also a special thanks to Kanox, without him I surely wouldn’t have enjoyed my dives as much as I did. The cost was around USD 320 for 6 dives – not exactly a bargain – but I recommend Geko wholeheartedly.

Dive time: 39 min
Max depth: 29 m
Water temp: 26°C
Visibility: 15 m
Seen: Wreck, Hard and soft coral, Yellowbanded sweetlips, Napoleon wrasse, Midnight snapper, Clownfish, Pink anemonefish, Spanish dancer, Surgeonfish, Sand perch, Bluestrip snapper, Giant clam, Spotted garden eel, Barracuda, Turtle, Sea fan

Six Thoughts on Cebu, Apo and Whale Sharks in Oslob

No photos in this post as I don’t have an underwater housing for my camera. The only expection was the one above taken with my friend’s GoPro Hero 3.

November 2014

1) Cebu City, just like the rest of the Philippines, has seen better days. This main hub of the Visayas was once a leading beach destination in Asia, although that status has long been overtaken by Bali, Koh Samui and Phuket. But Cebu still has a trump card in its pocket – from Hong Kong it is only a 2.5 hour flight, and 4.5 hours from both Seoul and Tokyo. This relative proximity to many of East Asia’s metropolises means Cebu will always remain a destination for tourists looking for a cheap and easy beach holiday, and it has done especially well catering to South Koreans.

Korean investment is everywhere, from restaurants to massage parlours to resorts. Often these establishments only serve Korean tour groups, which allow their clients to have a sun and beach holiday without the challenges of speaking a foreign language or eating unfamiliar cuisines.

2) The diving in Cebu, concentrated on Mactan Island, is decent but unexceptional. But as one of the few popular dive spots with good direct flight connections, as well as being one of the cheapest places to get the PADI certification, many East Asia-based divers would have dived in Cebu one time or another. The main dive sites are an artificial house reef off the Shangri-La and a nearby coral-covered wall that descends to 37m.

3) From Cebu to Dumaguete it is either a once-per-day, 40 minute flight with Cebu Pacific, or a whole day journey by bus and ferry. My buddy and I chose the latter, which involved a five hour bus ride from the South Terminal to Liloan, followed by taking a half-hour ferry ride to Sibulan in Negro Oriental, and hitching onto a tricycle to finally reach Atlantis Dive Resort, located in Dauin just south of Dumaguete. The journey began at 11 am when we got off our plane in Cebu and ended 10 hours later.

If that sounds too complicated, just take the plane like most people would.

4) Whichever way of transport you choose, your reward would be Apo Island, one of the top dive sites in the Philippines, renowned for its steep walls covered with hard coral and clear water. We made two dives, one each at the Cogon and the Sanctuary, and regrettably coral bleaching had affected a large percentage of the reef. We saw a school of angelfish, along with clownfish, lionfish and a few moray eel. Visibility was only around 10 m, around half of what’s expected in the dry season.

Dauin also has a number of sites centered around muck diving along the coast. I am not a fan of constantly searching for small aquatic lives in the mud, though macro fans would probably love this place, as potential subjects include sea slugs, shrimps, eels and pipefish. Visibility was less than 10 m.

5) During our stay at the Atlantis, only five other guests (3 Americans, 2 Canadians) were at the resort even as the calendar had flipped to November and the weather was becoming more stable. That’s great for us – often we were the only boat around and we could have entire sites all to ourselves. And while we didn’t get to see the best side of Apo Island, I had my most pleasurable diving experience yet thanked to Atlantis’ impeccable service. Granted I am still a novice diver with only 30 dives under my belt, but my eight dives with Atlantis had turned around my perspective of what’s expected of a diving operator.

Our trip began on a bad note. Cathay Pacific had misplaced our luggage, causing a delay of two days before it was delivered to our resort. Atlantis lent us all the gears except for BCD and regulator, which we didn’t own anyway, free of charge. The overall charge was $100 for five dives a day, including one night dive. The ratio of DM to divers was 1:3. A two-single-bed room cost $90 per night before tax.

Our divemasters Paul and Miguel have lived in the area all their lives and are extremely knowledgeable about the sites. At all my previous dive trips I carried my gear at all times, but here the crew was responsible for transporting everyone’s gears on and off the dive boat. My only duty was to enjoy the dives and everything else was taken care of. Comparing the cost and quality of service, it is really hard to justify diving in the developed world – I can’t see myself diving at a place like Australia again.

6) On our way back to Cebu City, we stopped in Oslob on the south-eastern tip of Cebu Island, about 30 minutes north of Liloan. This obscure, sleepy seaside town was put on the map when the UK’s Daily Mail published an article in 2011 about fishermen riding on the back of whale sharks and feeding them by hand. This caused a sensation internationally, and a few businessmen took advantage of this publicity and employed a group of fishermen to feed the whale sharks with the intention of keeping them in Oslob for as long as possible. Almost overnight Oslob was transformed into a busy tourist attraction, and the serenity of the past was thoroughly shattered in the process, replaced by tour buses and a beach side resort.

There was no sign of any tourist infrastructure after leaving Liloan – we passed by wooden shacks, free range chickens and unsupervised kids playing curbside until suddenly our bus made a right turn and pulled into a gravel lot. At 8:30 am a few buses were already parked in front of ours, most of them coming from Cebu City. A public announcement was blasting loudly instructing visitors not to put on any sunscreen to protect the whale sharks, and guess what, this message was promptly ignored as everyone was doing just that.

Next to the resort was a small pier, where an assembly line was in place to direct the tourists on boarding several small boats. You could either snorkel or dive – most went with the former because the feeding whale sharks would swim close to the surface and the cheaper cost. Whenever one was filled to its capacity of around ten passengers, it sailed out to the shallow sea where fishermen were feeding the whale sharks.

Once in the murky water filled with bits of brine shrimps, I immediately felt besieged from all directions; up top were boats and paddles, and my fellow snorkelers to my left and right. When I finally settled down a giant black object swan straight towards me. I quickly ducked to my right and an 8 m long whale shark and its 1.5 m mouth just missed me by a few centimeters. Just as I was making sense of what just happened, the whale shark made a U-turn and charged towards me again. Another two were looming in the background. In this frenzy everyone was attempting to avoid each other and the boats while concentrating on the whereabouts of the whale sharks without colliding with them.

Clearly this entire enterprise is not sustainable. This practice of feeding impacts the whale sharks in a myriad of ways; physical injuries from bumping into tourists and boats; an incomplete diet that now consists of solely brine shrimps; an alteration of migration path and a decline in survival ability in the wild. 

It is possible to see these gentle giants in the wild without the assistance of feeding, but that’s always a crapshoot. Most people I met in Oslob were fully aware of the negative impact of our collective presence, yet all of us couldn’t wait to get into the water to see the whale sharks up close. The result was one of the most exhilarating and guilt-ridden experiences I ever had while traveling.

Yotaro Honten 与太呂本店

April 10, 2015

Of all the cooking methods, deep frying is my least preferred. The dishes are more often than not oily, fat, dry and devoid of nutritional value. Needless to say of all the dishes the great food nation Japan has to offer tempura is one I tend to avoid. When I think of tempura, it is a soggy piece of deep fried shrimp acting as stomach filler on top of a bowl of soba or in a bento.

But tempura, when prepared by chefs with decades of experience, is one of the most cherished Japanese dishes. In Osaka the most famous place to have a meal of high-end tempura is the Michelin Two-Starred Yotaro Honten in Chuo Ward. That’s where I went with for my only proper meal in Osaka on this trip.

I had my hotel reserved a table at 18:00; we arrived 15 minutes late due to difficulty of hailing a cab in the rain. The main floor, with four tables and the cooking station in the corner, was completely empty when we arrived. Two middle aged ladies led us to a corner table and showed us the menu. As we were studying the Japanese menu, the silver-haired, forth-generation owner-chef came over to greet us and recommended the ¥2,500 combo for each of us in addition to a pot of sea bream rice (¥4,600). This was tremendous value for a Michelin-starred restaurant.

Two other tables were filled when the chef returned to show us the raw vegetable and seafood he was about to deep fry. After our approval he returned to the cooking station and began to dip the lightly-battered ingredients into the 170 degree oil one by one with a pair of long metal chopsticks. The quiet dining room was soon filled with a gentle buzzing sound of boiling oil. Each piece was left in the oil over various length depending on its size to ensure the moisture on the surface was properly evaporated while leaving the core ever-slightly undercooked.

Soon the tempura appeared on our table on three separate plates; the highlights were prawns, sea eel, Japanese whiting and shrimp paste toast. The batter was soft, like a firmer version of sponge cake, which kept the seafood and vegetable moist and retained the freshness of the ingredients. The shrimp paste taste surprisingly didn’t taste like an oil-soaked piece of bread; it almost felt like it could have come out from an oven. Salt, instead of tempura sauce, was provided as seasoning to avoid dampening the batter.

Following our ten-piece sets was the sea bream rice, the entrée on this night. The whole pot was shown to us first, then it was taken back to the kitchen where the flesh was picked out and the bones discarded.

The rice was cooked in broth and emitted a fine aroma, but the taste was much subtler. The fish was slightly dry but fresh. While I was finishing my bowl I found a piece of bone in the rice – this caught the eye of a waitress, who came over and profusely apologized because it wasn’t supposed to happen.

Overall it was a decent meal. I gained a deeper appreciation for the craft of tempura – the act of deep frying is not to change the ingredient but to enhance its essence – but I find a whole meal of only deep fried food a little too monotonous for my taste.

Deliciousness: 7/10
Value: 9/10
Recommendation: 8/10
Address: 2-3-14 Koraibashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka
Opening hours: 11:30 – 14:00, 17:00 – 20:00; closed on weekend
Website: www.与太呂本店.com

Cheap Eats in Osaka

April 9 – 11, 2015

At first glance, it is not easy to figure out what’s there to do in Osaka. Not when its defining attractions are a rebuilt castle or some retro neon light displays. But arriving with no expectations can often breed surprises – after spending a few days in Osaka, I have to concede that Osaka is not without its charm. Despite the town’s modern outlook, it has a blue-collar vibe when compared to Tokyo.

More than anything else, Osaka is defined by commerce and food, and it might not even be in that order. As the famous Japanese saying “Kyo no Kidaore, Osaka no Kuidaore” (People in Kyoto ruin themselves by spending on clothes while Osaka people on food) shows, you can literally eat yourself to your financial demise in Osaka. Luckily there are plenty of cheap eating options in Japan’s second city to lighten the burden on your wallet (if not your waistline).

Note: There will be no mentions of takoyaki or okonomiyaki because I don’t care for either.

Again, ¥100 = 6.5 HKD; ¥100 = 0.84 USD

Kura Sushi くら寿司

A nation-wide conveyor belt sushi chain? I know what you are thinking. Hear me out first: It is impossible to mention cheap eats without bringing up ¥100 sushi, and Osaka-based Kura Sushi, one of Japan’s biggest cheap sushi chains, deserves to be the representative in this category.

I visited the Kura Sushi in Naniwa next to Richmond Hotel Namba Daikokucho (which I highly recommend). The only moment of human interaction is at the cashier where you will receive a number for your assigned seat, and from then on everything is automated. You get to your seat, pour yourself some tea and focus on the conveyor belt where sushi is constantly being refilled out of sight. If what’s available isn’t to your liking you can place your order on a touch screen; a few minutes later your food will whirl right in front of you through a special tube on top of the belt. Simply slide your finished plates into a chute under the belt and your sushi tally will be counted. The next time you will see the presence of a human is when you are ready to pay your check back at the cashier.

Look at the menu – the sushi, most of them two a plate, really cost only ¥100. That’s cheaper than a can of Coke. Don’t expect fancy ingredients like tuna belly or sea urchin, but the seafood is generally fresh. Cooked dishes like ramen and donburi are also available from ¥300 – ¥700.

Deliciousness: 6/10
Value: 10/10
Recommendation: 8/10
Address: Multiple locations
Opening hours: Generally 11:00 – 23:00

Kanae Sushi かなえ寿司 

A main reason why I like to stay in Naniwa, besides being right next to Namba, is because it is home to Osaka Kizu Wholesale Market (大阪木津卸売市場). You can think of it like a very poor man’s Tsukiji Market; beginning at 4 am every morning the market is already in full operation mode where buyers from restaurants and retailers across Osaka are busy making purchases.

If you fancy having sushi for breakfast, you might consider Kanae Sushi. Opened in 1900, this unassuming shop is now manned by a father-son tag team. I walked in at 5:30 before my early morning flight and caught them by surprise – they clearly weren’t expecting a tourist at this hour.

I ordered the ¥1,500 set, with cooked prawn, squid, freshwater eel, scallop, yellowtail, mackerel and sea bream snapper. I don’t know if it was because of the early hour or I was a tourist, the quality was uneven. The sushi were laid out in a very casual manner. Worse, the rice was loose – I have never seen that before in Japan, not even at supermarket. The quality of the seafood was fine but not tellingly better than Kura Sushi’s.

With more than a century under its belt, Kanae Sushi deserves some benefit of the doubt, but there is a much better breakfast option nearby for me to endorse it.

Deliciousness: 3/10
Value: 1/10
Recommendation: 1/10
Address: 2-2-8 Shikitsuhigashi, Naniwa Ward, Osaka
Opening hours: Generally 4:30 – 13:30

Kawakami 川上商店

Not satisfied with the lazily assembled sushi at Kanae, I walked to the other side of Osaka Kizu Wholesale Market and found Kawakami, a unagi (freshwater eel) shop bustling with customers. Remarkably, this eatery has served its signature dish at the same location for over 200 years.

I ordered the ¥1,500 unadon (eel rice bowl). A middle-aged woman attentively reheat three pieces of unagi on a grill for a few minutes before the dish was served. The eel was crisp on the outside and tender inside. For the same price as the sushi set, this bowl of rice was much more gratifying.

Deliciousness: 7/10
Value: 6/10
Recommendation: 7/10
Address: 2-2-8 Shikitsuhigashi, Naniwa Ward, Osaka
Opening hours: 5:00 – 13:00

Ajiman 味万

If you are in need of a quick bite during your Shinsaibashi-suji shopping spree, Ajiman is not a terrible option – as long as you stick with katsudon (rice bowl with deep fried pork cutlet and egg). A katsudon set (¥950) came with miso soup and pickled vegetables. The batter was crispy while the pork remained tender.

We also ordered a bowl of soba and a plate of tenmusu (rice ball with shrimp tempura) – the noodle was soggy and the rice balls cold.

Deliciousness: 5/10
Value: 7/10
Recommendation: 5/10
Address: 3-6-12 Kitakyuhojimachi, Chuo Ward, Osaka
Opening hours: Generally 11:00 – 19:00

Hokkyokusei (Shinsaibashi Original) 北極星 心斎橋本店

The concept of omurice (omelette with fried rice) has always intrigued me. A combination of two of my favorites, this seemingly easy to make dish is actually quite hard to master. I have yet had a decent one in Hong Kong – the egg is usually too thin and the rice too dry, so I made it a priority to visit Hokkyokusei, Osaka’s most renowned omurice shop.

Founded in 1950, Hokkyokusei is housed in one of the very few traditional Japanese style buildings remaining in Shinsaibashi, Osaka’s main shopping district. After removing our shoes at the entrance, we walked through a narrow corridor, passing a small garden, and were led to our seat at the edge of a large dining hall. Hokkyokusei’s fame evidently has transcended beyond Japan; on this night the clientele consisted visitors from all over East Asia.

We ordered the two most popular items on the menu – hashed beef omurice (¥1,050) and mentaiko omurice (¥930). Puffy and moist, the omurice looked really promising when they were brought to our table. It all went downhill when I cut mine in half – the egg was just as thin as the ones I had. The taste was forgettable; the hashed beef too salty, the mentaiko tasteless, and the rice was dry.

My quest for a good plate of omurice continues.

Deliciousness: 4/10
Value: 2/10
Recommendation: 4/10
Address: 2-7-27 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward, Osaka
Opening hours: 11:30 – 21:30

Wakasaya (Namba) 若狭家 難波店

Thanks to persistent deflation, it is generally not hard to eat well with a tight budget in Japan. Now, I am not suggesting you should dine at ¥100 sushi or gyudon chains for every meal – this is the country with the most Michelin three-star restaurants after all – but with so many cheap and reliable options around, how much are you willing to pay for a very minor upgrade in quality?

Wakasaya presents such a case study. It specializes in chirashizushi, which is raw seafood scattered on rice. It offers most types of seafood, including popular ones like sea urchin, scallop, salmon roe, spot prawn and tuna. The quality of the ingredients are acceptable – not as fresh as Kura Sushi’s – but given its wider range Wakasaya charges about double the price. The size is also comparable. To have a filling meal it will cost more than ¥2,000.

I personally would rather pay less for a more basic alternative or trade up and have a proper sushi meal at an established shop.

Deliciousness: 5/10
Value: 7/10
Recommendation: 5/10
Address: 1-7-5 Dōtonbori, Chuo Ward, Osaka
Opening hours: 11:00 – 23:00

Jiyuuken (Namba Original) 自由軒 難波本店

Whenever I think about food in Osaka, Jiyuuken always comes to my mind. To me, this place is the prototype of eatery in Osaka; a small, time-tested eatery run by an old lady that oversees an even older staff. Walking into Jiyuuken feels like being time warped back to the sixties.

The signature dish of Jiyuuken is curry rice with minced pork and raw egg. The old lady who served us advised me to mix some tonkatsu sauce with the rice. The texture was both watery and sticky, but it was not unpleasant. I couldn’t really differentiate the ingredients as the tastes overlapped. Every spoonful was thick, hearty and comforting.

Deliciousness: 7/10
Value: 8/10
Recommendation: 9/10
Address: 3-1-34 Namba, Chuo Ward, Osaka
Opening hours: 11:20 – 21:20

Mini Udon Excursion in Takamatsu

April 7 – 9, 2015

Japanese are serious food lovers. Almost every region is synonymous with its local specialty; for ramen there are Sapporo and Fukuoka, Osaka has takoyaki and kushikatsu, and okonomiyaki in Hiroshima. But probably nobody loves their local dish quite like the marriage-like devotion people in Kagawa Prefecture have with Sanuki udon (Sanuki is the former name of Kagawa).

A quick search on shows there an incredible 5,100 restaurants that sell udon in Kagawa. That’s one udon eatery per 195 people (For comparison 22,482 people share a single McDonald’s in the States). Many sell only udon and are opened for just a few hours a day or until stock runs out. One is always just around the corner – you can even find them in the middle of rice fields.

So what’s different about Sanuki udon from the ones commonly available elsewhere? Traditionally the noodle was made with a locally produced wheat flour, but nowadays most of the grain is imported from Australia. The noodle is square in shape, has flat edges, and is only cooked briefly in boiled water to retain its distinguished chewiness. The broth is made from dried sardine and is much lighter in color and salinity than outside of the prefecture. Most shops have a self-serve counter where the patrons can add scallion, ginger and tenkasu for free, or pay extra for various deep fried toppings or raw egg.

I was prepared to eat nothing but udon for three straight days – when in Takamatsu, do as the locals do, right? I love pasta, not a fan of most Chinese noodle except daoxiaomian, and of the three main types of Japanese noodles I only care for ramen and udon but not soba. My point is – I have a high tolerance for noodle. My carb-cutting wife, though, would sensibly have none of it, so I would have to pick and choose my spots flexibly. A second breakfast? Great. Afternoon tea after a filling lunch? I was up to that too. Somehow I worked in three meals in total around Takamatsu on the recommendation of a friend and

Yamada-ya うどん本陣 山田家 本店

“All the udon shops taste the same.”

“Everyone goes to Yamada-ya.”

Bestowed with these two advises from my Osaka-based friend, we began our udon journey at Yamada-ya on a drizzly Tuesday afternoon. Humble and unfurnished are the traits of the typical udon joint, but Yamada-ya completely destroys this stereotype like how the Mountain smashed the Viper’s head into smithereens. The front gate of Yamada-ya looks like that of a prestigious kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto; it leads to a large Japanese garden that wouldn’t look out of place if it was teleported to a World Heritage temple like Kinkaku-ji.

Such extravagance means two things – this place is hugely profitable by selling a modest soul food, and this success probably mainly comes from tourist dollars.

Since it was late in the afternoon we didn’t have to wait to get a table. This was not a self-servicing kind of place; we were led through the automatic door to our table where two booklet awaited us. The menu had several categories – it began with two pages of seasonal specials, then followed by a wide range of udon, deep fried dishes, oden, pressed sushi and tofu. Unfazed by this onslaught of choices, we went with the basic and ordered the cold udon and a few sides.

Cold Soba

The cold soba (¥570) came with a bottle of room temperature broth and the usual toppings like chopped scallions and tenkasu. It was not as chewy as I expected. It was alright – but there are better ones in Takamatsu.

Yamada-ya is located to the east of Yashima, which makes it a convenient noodle break after visiting the mountain. Otherwise it doesn’t warrant the commute.

Recommendation: 3/5
Address: 3186 Mure, Murechō, Takamatsu, Kagawa Prefecture
Opening hours: 10:00 – 20:00
Seat: 260 (additional 30 at the garden if weather permits)

Udon Bakaichidai 手打十段 うどんバカ一代

Most highly regarded udon shops are located outside of Takamatsu, which isn’t surprising given the city’s relatively expensive rent and the low margin of profit for selling udon. Udon Bakaichidai is the highest ranked one that’s close to the city center. On foot it is a 15 min walk from Kawaramachi train station.

We arrived at 8:30 in the morning and the shop was filled with locals having breakfast. Imagine a polar opposite of Yamada-ya and you will get Udon Bakaichidai. Everything is self-service, kind of like a fast food joint that only sells udon. The ordering was quite straightforward except you could choose the quantity per bowl, from one to three servings. The local’s love for udon is really not an exaggeration – almost everyone went for the max serving. I could barely finish one.

Cold Soba with deep fried pork chop

Again my choice was cold udon (¥210 + ¥80 for commonly free toppings), and a deep fried pork chop. I always prefer cold udon because the coldness accentuates the noodle’s chewy texture. The noodle was thicker than Yamada-ya and the firmness was about the same. The pork chop was cold and tasteless. Given the price and location there was not much reason to nitpick.

Recommendation: 3.5/5
Address: 1-6-7 Tagachō, Takamatsu, Kagawa
Opening hours: 6:00 – 18:00
Seat: 42

Udon Ippuku うどん 一福

Not content with what I had so far, immediately following my breakfast at Udon Bakaichidai, I made a last-ditch attempt to satisfy my need of knowing I had at least one decent bowl of Sanuki udon at its place of origin. My choice was Udon Ippuku on Takamatsu’s west side. This is one of those highly regarded shop that only opens for a few hours each day over lunch and closes whenever stock runs out.

Soba with raw egg

Already a long lineup of around 20 people had formed when we arrived at 10:30. This time I ordered the Tsukimi Udon (udon with raw egg; ¥330) for a change, along with some deep fried shrimps. One note on the shrimps first – it was oily, cold and tasteless. After suffering the same fate at both Bakaichidai and Ippuku, I recommend not ordering any deep fried food at udon shops unless it was just out of the deep fryer.

On the first bite it was immediately apparent Ippuku’s udon was in a different league to all others I encountered thus far. Even consumed hot it was much firmer than the cold udon at Yamada-ya and Bakaichidai. While there should be even better udon in Kagawa, I left Ippuku learning two things: Not everyone has to go to Yamada-ya, and more importantly, there are tangible differences between a passable bowl of udon and a good one.

Recommendation: 4.5/5
Address: 169-1 Kokubunjichō Nii, Takamatsu, Kagawa
Opening hours:
[Mon – Fri] 10:00 – 14:00
[Sat – Sun] 10:00 – 15:00 or out of stock
Seat: 40

What’s to Do in Kagawa Prefecture?

April 6 – 9, 2015

Photo set on Flickr

When I was sitting under the Nagoya TV Tower ten years ago deciding how to spend my Golden Week weekend, I went unconventional and headed south to Takamatsu for a three-day udon pilgrimage. Kagawa, the prefecture that Takamatsu is the capital of, is not a very popular tourist destination. Heck, the entire Shikoku is pretty off the beaten path, and for good reason – there is just not much to do on this mostly rural island. After surviving the ordeal I wanted no part of this place again, just like how Bran felt toward the tower where he got shoved out of the window.

Fast forward to 2015. After a few days in Okayama, our next destination was a choice between Hiroshima and Kagawa. Given our priorities of crowd avoidance and sakura, Kagawa came out on top because I knew almost nobody would be there and Shiudeyama (紫雲出山) seemed like a top-notch hanami spot.

Revisiting this place ten years later – I was genuinely surprised at how little seemed to have changed. When even Kyoto, the physical manifestation of more than a thousand-year-old Japanese history, is changing constantly due to the relentless onslaught from tourism, Takamatsu’s quiet shopping arcades and empty streets feel eerily reassuring; no matter what transpires in this crazy world of ours, there are still pockets in this planet that will by and large always stay the same.

Gradually I developed a soft spot for this place and came to really appreciate the kindness of the locals. Japanese are known for their politeness, but they are also generally somewhat stoic and unapproachable. Not so in Kagawa. These people are extremely friendly – in a way you wouldn’t expect if you have never strayed away from Tokyo or Osaka. They will chat with you in spite of the language barrier. Their politeness is so inexorable it brings an element of unintended comedy to many mundane exchanges; I asked a stranger for direction and he bowed and apologized to me after leading me to my destination; the boy who bowed both before and after crossing a pedestrian crossing because I had the courtesy to stop as a driver; the elderly owner who grabbed my hands and stared into my eyes like a long lost son after I complimented his café; the cook who laughed uncontrollably when I asked to take his portrait then immediately asked me to share the result with him…

People. Udon. Sakura. There are more than enough reasons to spend a few days in Kagawa. Want some diversions? Try these few places that warrant a few hours each.

Kotohira-gū 金刀比羅宮 

A Shinto shrine almost as well-known for the 785 steps of stairs to reach the main hall as its status as the headquarter of all the shrines bearing the names Kompira and Kotohira, Kotohira-gū is the most significant cultural site in Kagawa. Located at Mt Zōzu next to Kotohira, a small town 30 km south of Takamatsu, this shrine is home to Ō-mono-nushi-no-mikoto, a deity of seafaring who has the power to heal and bring good fortune to its subjects. The ema hall next to the main hall is filled with large wooden plagues and photos of fishing boats and merchant ships, but apparently this deity is not confined to Earth, as there is a plague of an astronaut coming here to give thanks for his safe voyage.

Kotohira doesn’t warrant an overnight stay, but we found a good deal with Kotohira Grand Hotel Sakuranosho (桜の抄), an onsen hotel located at the foot of Mt Zōzu. Our western-style room with full board (dinner and breakfast served at the top floor dining hall) and public onsen came at ¥21,330 per person. The quality of the hot spring was passable – I couldn’t smell any mineral and my skin felt dry after my dip – but the kaiseki dinner was pretty decent.

Ritsurin Garden 栗林公園

The concept of a stroll garden is that by following a path around the garden, visitors are able to enjoy a different view every step along the way. Many of Japan’s premier gardens are of this variety, including the big three of Kenroku-en, Koraku-en and Kairaku-en. Kenroku-en especially is lauded by many as the most beautiful garden in Japan.

Kenroku-en and Koraku-en are fine (yet been to Kairaku-en), but my pick for the best garden in Japan lays much further south in Takamatsu. Ritsurin Garden simply blows the competition out of the water. Take Koraku-en for example; along the main path are meticulously trimmed pine trees, quaint tea houses, quiet streams and a mirror-like pond. Everything projects serenity and dedication – like a still-life masterpiece by, say, Willem Claeszoon Heda. The technique is out of this world, a museum-worthy piece, but the inanimate and everyday subject lacks emotional appeal or scale. Something is lacking when a 33-acre garden resemble a 103 x 123 cm painting.

Scale is not an issue for Ritsurin Garden, which takes up 185 acres of land and benefits by being located at the foot of Mt Shiun (紫雲山). Tired of taking closeup photos of pine trees? Climb atop Fuyō-ho (飛来峰) at the park’s southeast corner for a panoramic shot of the whole park. Want something that moves for a change? Look for the resident crane at the southern lake or head to the northwest for a waterfall. Prefer to wander aimlessly for a while? Go to the northeast where the towering trees block all sunlight from penetrating to the ground.

Ritsurin Garden has everything you would expect for a Japanese garden – namely the attention to detail and an antiquated sense of artistry, in addition to a scale that none of its peers could match. If it were a painting it would be Rembrandt’s Landscape with a Castle , a landscape painting that seems fairly typical until you are drawn in by Rembrandt’s genius use of light and mood that gives the castle a scale much larger than first appeared.

Shikoku Pilgrimage 


The Shikoku Pilgrimage is a 1,200 km route that traces back the steps of Kōbō Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism in the 8th century. Consisting 88 temples over the island’s four prefectures, the pilgrimage requires 6 weeks to complete on foot. Even by car it is an exhausting task – think about it – a daily routine of 110 km and 8 temples will still set you back 11 days.

Kagawa is home to 22 of these temples, from #67 Daikō-ji to #88 Ōkubo-ji. They scatter all over the prefecture and you are bound to come across a few no matter where you are heading. None of them is a must-see – head to Kyoto for architectural wonders – they are more like your local churches where people come to hone their spirituality. Only difference is here has a dress code of white shirt and sedge hat.

I visited #70 Motoyama-ji (本山寺) and #84 Yashima-ji (屋島寺). The former’s main hall is designated as a national treasure and the latter, located at the top of Mt Yashima, offers a panoramic view of the eastern part of Takamatsu.

Awaji Yume no Butai 淡路夢舞台

Yes, Tadao Ando’s creation to commemorate the victims of the 1995 Kobe earthquake is located on Awaji Island, which is part of Hyōgo Prefecture, but everyone passes by it before crossing the Akashi Kaikyō Bridge when driving from Kagawa to Osaka.

The construction of Kansai International Airport began as a land reclamation project, and much of the earth came from the northern part of Awaji Island. To rebuild and draw visitors to this area, Ando was commissioned to build a golf course and a resort. What he had in mind was something much grander – Yume no Butai (the Dream Stage) was his vision of a harmonious coexistence between human and nature. Before he could realize his plan the Kobe earthquake struck and absolutely devastated the area. He went ahead with his initial design of a conference hall, a hotel, a chapel, an outdoor theater, a botanic garden, but added 100 flower beds on top of the fault line to remember the dead.

There is no better place to admire the work of this Pulitzer Prize winner. His trademark use of concrete and emphasis on light and shadow are all over this 28 hectares of land, but Yume no Butai is more than the technicality of his design. It is a place where an once-in-a-generation architect tries to inspire his compatriots that their country can recover and become a better place even after a hollowing disaster like the Kobe earthquake.